Month: January 2023 (Page 2 of 2)

We will describe the risks of mold exposure and the importance of preventing mold growth, while also providing a step-by-step guide on how to remove mold from your car. If you’re unlucky enough to already have developed this major problem, don’t worry!

While it may seem like an insurmountable challenge, in fact with the right supplies and with some elbow grease you can restore your car to the safe, clean, comfortable vehicle you deserve.

I. What is mold, and Why is it Dangerous?

Mold is a type of fungus that typically forms in the presence of higher temperatures and high levels of moisture. Exposure to mold can cause major health issues, especially in those who are sensitive to it.

Those who are most susceptible to the effects of mold include those with lung diseases, allergy sufferers, and those with compromised immune systems (e.g. those receiving treatment for cancer, who have had an organ transplant, or who are taking immunosuppressive medications).

The presence of mold can lead to respiratory and skin irritation, lung infections, asthma, and other health challenges. Symptoms can include nasal congestion, wheezing, eye and skin irritation, fever, and shortness of breath. That’s why it’s extremely important to avoid exposing yourself to mold, especially somewhere you’re likely to spend as much time as your car. (And to make sure you never leave your car out in the open if the top is down!)

Luckily, if you notice mold—typically noticeable due to a strong odor, but also potentially visible patches of mold—there are steps you can take to fix the problem. Keep reading to learn how to protect yourself from mold in your automobile.

II. How to Remove Mold

There are, of course, numerous methods to eradicate mold from your car, and everyone will recommend something different. But here’s what we think is the best way to do it.

1. Protect yourself

Always make SURE that you are wearing a surgical face mask or particle mask as well as strong, non-porous household cleaning gloves (make sure they’re solid enough not to break). This will decrease the likelihood of harmful, excessive exposure to mold and its possible toxins.

2. Air out your car in a sunny spot

Sunlight and fresh air are pretty powerful tools in the fight against mold. Like virtually all types of fungi, mold grows in moist areas, so the combination of sun and fresh air dries things out and makes it impossible for mold to survive.

Ideally, on a clear day, move your car to a sunny parking spot and open up the doors and windows (and sunroof, if there is one). Give it a few hours and let any dampness dry out. (Just be sure to keep an eye on the weather—you’ll be giving yourself even more of a problem if a sudden shower appears and your car’s interior is exposed to the elements!)

3. Inspect your car

It’s a good idea to look all throughout your car to get a sense of where the mold is an issue, so you can focus on particular areas in the later steps. Make sure to look at the following: surface of the seats, underneath seats, steering wheel, floor, seat belts, and seat side seams.

Mold can vary in color, so just look for (typically circular) areas of black, green, white, gray, or brown. That’s how you’ll know where you need to focus your cleaning efforts.

4. Prepare before disinfecting

Try to break up patches of mold by gently brushing them with a toothbrush. Then, if you’re lucky enough to have access to one, use a wet-dry vacuum cleaner to vacuum up the mold you’ve just brushed up. (If you can’t get your hands on a wet-dry vacuum, that’s OK—this step is helpful but not essential).

5. Spray with disinfectant solutions

Take out your car’s seat covers and carpets. Before you wash them, you can use any of the following mixtures to kill mold in these sections of fabric:

• 4 parts white vinegar and 1 part water
• 1 quart of water, ½ cup of white vinegar, ¼ teaspoon of clove oil, and 1 tbsp of baking soda (note: avoid exposing skin directly to clove oil—it can cause dermatitis and irritate skin and mucous membranes)

Pour either of these mixtures into a spray bottle and spray it on your car’s seat covers and carpets. They should sit on the material for at least 20 minutes—or even longer—in order to ensure that the potent ingredients are able to fully kill the mold and prevent its regrowth.

You may also want to spray other parts of your car where mold has been able to infiltrate and cause odor (including as the dashboard, air vent, steering wheel, and seats).

Stains on the seats, seat covers, and carpets can be removed by sprinkling good old Borax powder on them (yes, it’s useful for so many purposes!), waiting at least 10 minutes, and then sweeping or vacuuming the powder away.

6. Remove the leftover residue

Once the mold has been killed, you can use a wet-dry vacuum to vacuum up the liquid solution. Otherwise, you can wait for the areas to dry and then use a regular vacuum to vacuum up the dried-up mold residue. If you use a regular vacuum, make sure you use one with a bag and then throw the bag away afterward. Otherwise, you’ll be spreading mold spores when you bring it inside to clean your home.

7. Wash your car’s seat covers and carpets

Now that you’ve thoroughly disinfected them, you can use standard detergent to wash your car’s seat covers and carpets. If possible, add Borax powder when you wash them and allow them to dry in the sun if it’s a sunny day (as we said, the sun is incredibly helpful for this process).

If for whatever reason you can’t wash them with detergent, an alternative is to spray them thoroughly (really all over, so that the mold spores are killed) with a solution of water and non-iodized salt. Then allow them to dry in the sun, and wait for the salt to form a crust on the surface, which you can brush or vacuum off.

Salt does a great job getting rid of mold—it dries it out thoroughly and kills it.

8. Optional: use an air freshener spray to remove leftover odors

If you’re bothered by the residual smell of vinegar (which will disappear as the liquid completely evaporates), you can use an air freshener spray to ensure everything smells fine.

Most important is to air everything out—that’s what will leave everything smelling good.

9. Replace the seat covers and carpets, and keep the mold from coming back

Once you’ve washed and dried the seat covers and carpets, it’s time to put them back in your car.

And here’s a key takeaway: since mold requires a wet environment to grow, you can prevent its return by ensuring your car is dry and that it remains totally dry. This is the most important part of preventing mold re-growth.

You can use a dehumidifier to lower the overall moisture levels in your car.

III. Best Car Air Fresheners

If, after cleaning, you decide you’d like to use an air freshener to ensure your car smells absolutely perfect, here are some of the best commercial products to use:

1. Moso Natural Air Purifying Bag

Here’s one all natural option—a linen bag full of pure bamboo charcoal! Activated charcoal is amazing for absorbing moisture and odor. In order to keep it functioning, all you have to do is leave it in the sun to dry (with all the moisture having been absorbed).

It lasts for two years, and then you can open up the bag and use the charcoal as fertilizer for plants. So it’s eco-friendly from start to finish, and won’t expose you to any toxic chemicals whatsoever.

2. Turtle Wax 50819 Power Out! Odor-X Kinetic Whole Car Blast

This is a high-powered canister deodorizer that “seeks and destroys odors at the molecular level”—and does so for up to a month. It can be used underneath seats, on the inside of air vents, and in carpet fibers.

It’s also a pretty great value.

Customer reviews report it’s incredibly effective and easy to use. Note that the initial smell of the product is strong, but the chemical smell will dissipate over time leaving no odor in its wake.

3. Ozium Smoke and Odor Eliminator Gel

This is a gel deodorizer that’s not designated specifically for cars, but also for home and office. It comes with a twist top that allows you to choose the level of odor control.

The product itself has a slight citrusy odor but nothing too strong. It’s a solid product that’s easy to use and very affordable.

4. Chemical Guys New Car Smell Premium Air Freshener and Odor Eliminator

Love the smell of a new car?

This product is engineered not only to eliminate odor from your vehicle but also to add that amazing new car smell (thankfully without the associated toxic chemicals that are part of the real new car smell).

It’s also so concentrated that it can be diluted with distilled water and still work.

And amazingly, all you need for your entire car is one spray.

5. Meguiar’s G2316 Odor Eliminator

Here’s another super-effective spray that gets high customer ratings. It’s a great choice for cars and trucks as well as in the home.

The effects are immediate with a spray as opposed to a gel (which works more gradually over time). That means use of this spray means pretty much instant odor elimination.

Nothing fancy, no frills—just a really effective product for odor removal.

Now you know that as worrisome or even scary as the prospect of a mold-infested vehicle can be, there are options to address the problem. All it takes is some time and effort, with attention to safety (wear a mask and gloves!) and your vehicle can be good as new.

You can even use natural products like vinegar and clove oil solutions to do the work for you, if that’s a priority. And once you’re done, of course, it’s important to keep your car dry, so that you don’t have to go through the trouble of cleaning out the mold again in the future.

In the process of reading this article, you’ll learn why tree sap can damage to your car, and—if you’re already dealing with this issue—you will be provided with a step-by-step guide how to remove tree sap from the surface of your vehicle.

We will cover the best methods for tree sap removal, and discuss the best products on the market that you can use to remove this often infuriating substance yourself if you do decide to go the DIY route.

Although this process may seem very challenging, rest assured that selecting the right products and following our thorough guide will have your car absolutely shiny in no time.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. What is Tree Sap?

II. How can Tree Sap Damage your Car’s Paint Job?

III. Best Tree Sap Removal Products

IV. How to Remove Tree Sap From Your Car

I. What is Tree Sap?

Tree sap is equivalent to the “blood” of trees. It contains myriad minerals and nutrients necessary for the tree’s survival, as well as the energy that supports trees’ growth and functioning. (You may be most familiar with tree sap in the form of maple syrup, which made from the sap of maple trees—drilled from the trees and then boiled down into a concentrated and very sweet liquid.)

There are two different liquids found within trees that are referred to as “sap.” The first is xylem, which moves water, hormones, and minerals through the tree from bottom to top. The second is phloem, which is the sticky substance that contains sugars generated by the tree’s photosynthesis (used by the tree to fuel growth)—the conversion of sunlight to energy.

Phloem is the kind of sap that will cause significant frustration when it gets on your car—all that sugar means it’s basically like glue. (In fact, people have used sap as glue in the past for that very reason.)

Tree sap leaking on the outside of a tree is often a sign of disease, damage or pest infestation; this is because trees extrude sap from any wounds on their surfaces, as it functions as a kind of “scab.”

It’s incredibly easy to recognize the presence of sap on your car—it’s very visually apparent in most cases.

You’ll see transparent or red-tinted bumps on the surface of your car. And once you’ve recognized the problem, there are ways to resolve it.

Keep reading to learn how.

II. How can Tree Sap Damage your Car’s Paint Job?

Tree sap really is one of the worst things that can happen to a vehicle’s paint. It’s extremely difficult to remove and can cause more damage than just about any other contaminant.

People often park their cars under trees to benefit from the shade they offer, but the potential effects of the sap that can drip from trees make this a bad idea all around.

Pine sap is exceptionally sticky and problematic. Sap drips onto the car, then “bakes” in the sun to solidify into a resin-like substance. It then eats away at the car’s clear coat and paint, so that every bit of sap has an area of damage around it. It’s almost impossible to wash off using standard car washing techniques, and cleaner waxes, and spray cleaners, and even solvents may be unable to remove this dried-on sap.

The damage that can accrue can be very costly, so it’s important to nip the problem in the bud before it becomes too overwhelming. The longer you leave sap on your car, the worse the paint damage will get.

III. What is the difference between Car Wax and Car Polish?

Before we go any further, let’s make sure that it’s understood that car polish and car wax are two very different things.

Car polish is used as a remedy. Polish removes the dirt, grime, grease, and scratches that are left behind after a good washing. Solvents within the polish allow it to remove, or at least reduce, impurities on the paint surface and will bring out the shine.

Car polish should be used in a multistage process of caring for your vehicle’s paint because, while it can make your car look great when finished, it does not seal or protect the paint. Waxing is the only true way to protect your car’s paint and should be completed after the polishing step.

III. Best Tree Sap Removal Products

These are some of the most powerful, effective products on the market for removing tree sap from your automobile and protecting its paint job:

1. Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover

This spray-on foam clings thoroughly to wide areas and works beautifully to dissolve not only sap but also tar and bugs. It functions as a pre-wash or spot cleaner and is formulated to be entirely streak-free. It can be used on paint, glass, metal, and plastic. It sprays as a foam, then becomes a liquid, which can be wiped or washed off leaving a sparkling clean surface with no residue.

2. Stoner Car Care Tarminator Bug, Tar, Sap, and Grease Remover

This spray uses MicroActive cleaning technology to quickly dissolve and break down sap (in less than 30 seconds) as well as bugs, tar, and grease on the surface of your car. It’s also specially designed to work on chrome and paint surfaces without damaging the finish of either material.

3. Swan Isopropyl Alcohol, 99 Percent

Some people say that high concentrations of isopropyl alcohol work better than any other substance to dissolve stuck-on sap. Better yet, it’s easy to find and has many different uses. If you’re thrifty and prefer a straightforward, versatile product, this is a great choice.

IV. How to Remove Tree Sap From Your Car

People will recommend plenty of methods to clean tree sap off of your car. But read on, because we’re offering you what we believe is the absolute best method for doing so.

1. Gather your supplies

You’ll need the following supplies, so make sure you have them all before you begin:

• Clean, soft towels or terry cloths
• A box cutter blade (for use on glass only—use this if you have sap on your car windows)
• Sap remover solution (such as Bug and Tar Remover) or rubbing alcohol
• Bucket of water
• Sponge/wash mitt
• Spray wax/quick detailer polish

2. Wash and dry your vehicle as usual

Use soap and hot water to clean your car, then dry it all off. By washing and drying your vehicle, you ensure that the steps that follow are as practical as they can possibly be.

If you get fortunate, you might even be able to remove the sap with this step, assuming it’s not terribly stuck on.

Additionally, washing your car before removing the sap means you’ll be able to see where all the sap is, and you’ll derive a lot more satisfaction from having a spotless car when you’re done with this process.

3. Locate the spots of sap

As we mentioned, the sap spots will be visible as typically hardened, clear or reddish raised areas. If they’ve been there for a while, they may have begun to eat into your car’s paint job and may also be surrounded by the areas of deterioration that are typical of the long-term presence of hardened sap.

4. Apply sap remover solution (or rubbing alcohol) to the sap spots

Now that you know where the sap is located, you can get into the nitty-gritty of removing it. Pour several drops of sap remover solution (such as Bug and Tar Remover) onto a clean washcloth or terrycloth.

If you don’t want to purchase this product, you can also try using rubbing alcohol, although it’s not designed for this purpose. Place the cloth on the sap and press it onto the area for a minimum of 30 seconds to one minute (the pressure will help the remover to soak into the sap).

After allowing the solution to work, you can begin to use some elbow grease to rub the sap away. Make sure you do so gently because otherwise, you can spread the sap around on the surface of your car, creating a more significant problem.

If the sap is really hardened on and isn’t coming off, you can repeatedly soak the area with more solution or rubbing alcohol, then manually rub it away, until you’ve gotten rid of it all.

5. Remove sap from your windshield/windows

If the sap got on your windshield or windows, first thing’s first: do not use your windshield wipers on fresh sap! It will just spread it around and leave you with messy streaks that are difficult to remove. Instead, you can follow the same steps above.

You can also use a box cutter blade to remove the most hardened pieces of sap from the glass. Just be careful, as these blades are quite sharp.

And be sure to keep the blade flat along the surface of the glass so that you don’t create scratches, which are quite unattractive and can impede visibility over time.

6. Finishing touches

Once you’ve gotten all the sap off of your car’s paint job and windows, spray quick wax onto the paint and clean it off with a detailing cloth. This will leave your car looking good as new with a beautiful finish.

The wax will make sure that the paint and clear coat are thoroughly protected, and that future damage is less likely.

Conclusion

Now that you’re aware of why sap is such a common problem—and one that can potentially ruin your car’s paint job if left too long—it’s a good thing you also know that it’s completely possible to fix.

Your car won’t be permanently stuck with patches of dried on resin; all you need is some essential products, time, and elbow grease, and you can save your car’s paint job and windows from the effects of sap.

And in the future, be sure to avoid parking under trees, and keep an eye out for any new patches of sap, since the longer they sit there, the harder they’ll be to remove.

33SHARES

Engine bay detailing refers to the process of removing perhaps thousands of miles’ worth of dust, dirt and grime from the space inside your car where the engine is held.

Although this may seem like a daunting or delicate process, it’s possible to do yourself with a little planning, thought and effort. The result is a clean, beautiful engine bay that looks just like new—as well as a vehicle that functions more reliably and has a higher resale value.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. The Importance of Cleaning your Engine Bay

II. Our Step-by-Step Guide to Detailing your Engine Bay

III. The 4 Best Degreasers for Detailing your Engine Bay

IV. How Often to Clean your Engine Bay

I. The Importance of Cleaning your Engine Bay

People often miss the importance of cleaning the engine bay of their cars, in part because it’s not the first thing you see when you look at a vehicle. In fact, most people never see it at all—so undoubtedly there are plenty of beautifully cleaned, polished and waxed cars on the road that are hiding terribly grimy engine bays. However, the engine bay gets dirty really fast.

Cleaning it makes sure that grease and dirt don’t accumulate within or surrounding components that are essential to the function of your car. Dirt tends to cause degradation of components over time—the pulleys and bearings especially are damaged by grit and grease accumulation.

The other benefit of cleaning your engine bay is that it allows you to get a better understanding of what’s there and keep an eye on any problems that may arise over time, which dirt and grime can hide. If you catch any leaks, corrosion, etc. early, you might be able to save lots of money by preventing worsening issues later on.

Additionally, a clean engine bay helps maintain your vehicle’s resale value, as it is indicative of a well-maintained automobile overall.

Note: Although this process is generally quite straightforward, you will definitely want to take extra precautions if your car is from the 1990s or any older. The particular concern is that although most of the time, electrical components are protected if they’re hit with a high-pressure flow of water it can get inside and cause problems.

So it’s a good idea to cover parts like your car’s alternator, fuse box, air intake, electrical connections/plugs, and battery terminals—plastic shrink wrap/cling film is a great choice for this kind of protection.

Note that this is not an exhaustive list of precautions you should take when detailing your engine bay. And when in doubt, ALWAYS seek the guidance of a professional for your own safety and that of your beloved vehicle!

II. Our Step-by-Step Guide to Detailing your Engine Bay

Ready to get started?

Here’s our list of 10 straightforward steps to keeping your engine bay spotless and beautiful:

1. Gather your materials

These will include, but are not necessarily limited to:

• Engine degreaser
• Water hose
• Plastic bags/plastic shrink wrap
• Bucket
• Drip pan
• Car wash mitt
• Wash brush
• Car wash soap
• Absorbent pads
• Terry and microfiber cloth towels
• Plastic cleaner
• Metal cleaner/polish

2. Give the engine bay an initial hose-down

This is an important step just to get rid of a lot of the dirt that’s on there and help the degreaser spread further.

Be sure to do this once the engine is cool—it doesn’t have to be entirely cold, but you should leave the hood up for at least an hour before you start the process.

While you’re waiting, put down some drip pans and absorbent pads so that the chemicals you’re using don’t get everywhere.

3. Protect parts from water

Cover the battery with plastic (a bag or shrink wrap). You may also want to cover the alternator, carburetor, and distributor. This will depend on what kind of car you have—whether it’s a classic or modern car, for one.

Make sure you don’t spray too much water around the fuse box and coil packs if you’ve got a modern car.

4. Add the degreaser

You’ll want to use degreaser rather than standard soap because it cuts through the oil (hence the name “degreaser”).

Apply liberally in the oiliest areas such as the oil pan and starter. Typically you will want to allow the degreaser to sit for several minutes so that it acts on the grease effectively.

A wash brush will also help get things clean, and the soft bristles won’t create any worrisome scratches.

5. Rinse again and perhaps repeat

Using low water pressure, give it all another rinse. If your engine bay hasn’t been detailed in a very long time, you may have to repeat step 4.

6. Clean again with automotive soap

Fill the bucket with soapy water and, using your car wash mitt, get everything really clean now that the degreaser has removed the worst of the oil.

7. Rinse again

Once again, use low pressure to rinse everything. Then remove the plastic bags or cling wrap from the components you were protecting, since there won’t be any more big splashes of water.

8. Polish plastic and metal parts

Polish plastic parts with plastic cleaner, applying the cleaner with your terry cloths and then removing it with the microfiber cloth. This will help to remove small scratches. And then use metal polish as the particular product’s instructions describe (they may all be different).

9. Dry things out

Use a leaf blower or pressurized air to blow out the extra water in your engine bay. Then start your engine until it reaches the typical temperature of operation.

If you turn on your car’s AC, the compressor will run as well. Do this for about five minutes so that all the now-clean components dry.

10. Optional: apply your engine dressing

This isn’t strictly required, but a spray-on engine dressing once the engine has cooled can make it look especially great. It adds shine and will round out the process of making your engine bay look absolutely as good as new.

Enjoy a car that’s now beautiful on the inside as well as the outside!

III. The 4 Best Degreasers for Detailing your Engine Bay

Choosing the right product can make this whole process a lot easier and more effective. Here are some of the best degreasers on the market:

1. Gunk EB1 Engine Degreaser

This product has been produced by a family-owned company in Charlotte, NC for 55 years. There’s a reason it’s been out there for such a long time—it’s extremely effective. It’s also cheap, but bear in mind that it smells pretty bad!

2. Meguiar’s D10801 Super Degreaser

Looking for something that doesn’t stink and—dare I say—even offers a pleasant herbal aroma? This is your pick! It’s also very effective and is super easy to use. It leaves no unsightly white residue, either, which is a major positive for this kind of product.

3. Chemical Guys Signature Series Orange Degreaser

This citrus-based formula works well on engines as well as tires, rims, tools, machinery, and other items—so it’s definitely multipurpose. It’s highly concentrated, and quickly and easily emulsifies grease, oil, dirt and grime.

4. Simple Green 19128 Crystal Industrial Cleaner/Degreaser

This is a non-toxic product that’s also unscented, fragrance-free and biodegradable. It’s a more eco-friendly option than most others, which will appeal to many. It’s all-purpose so works great for a multitude of applications. No added colors or fragrance mean it’s especially rinsable and leaves a clean, fresh finish.

IV. How Often to Clean your Engine Bay

It really depends on your circumstances—where you live, what the weather’s like, and so forth.

In general, for those who live in locations with low snowfall and low dust levels, cleaning just one or two times per year will suffice. However, drivers living in areas with harsher weather conditions (particularly locations with lots of rain, snow, and dust exposure) will want to clean their engine bay as often as every two or three months in the winter.

Otherwise, if you’re not sure how often to wash it, just check every now and then and clean it whenever it seems like the engine bay is getting dirty.

Conclusion

Now you know that the process of detailing your engine bay is not only possible, but even pretty easy, and certainly a good idea to do on a regular basis.

It will keep your car in top-notch condition, allowing it to cool more efficiently and preventing damage to components while also letting you get to know and keep an eye on your engine bay in case any issues arise.

Plus, should you ever decide to sell your vehicle, the resale value will be improved by a clean engine bay, which tells buyers the car has been extremely well-cared for.

Don’t be that person whose car looks spotless on the outside while it’s a total mess inside.

Buy a high-quality degreaser, gather up the rest of your needed materials and make sure your car is spotless inside and out.

In the process of cleaning cars, people tend to focus on the body and windows of the vehicle, since these are the closest to eye level. Frequently, certain parts of the car get overlooked in the washing process. And one of those often-overlooked areas is the car’s wheels.

Perhaps people think because they’re so close to the ground, no one’s going to look at them, and there’s no point bothering in cleaning them since they’ll get dirty again so soon. But have you ever seen a car fresh off the lot, with new wheels? Clean aluminum wheels make all the difference, and cleaning them could even make you feel like you’ve got a new car all over again. It’s not a terribly difficult task, either, as this article will describe—just a straightforward, step-by-step process that virtually anyone can do.

With this in mind, are you looking to take your car’s aluminum wheels from grimy and blah back to gleaming perfection? Keep reading to learn more about how to do so.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

I. Why Should You Clean your Car’s Wheels?

II. What’s the Difference between Aluminum and Steel Wheels?

II. Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning your Car’s Aluminum Wheels

IV. The 3 Best Wheel Cleaners & Polishes on the Market

V. How Often to Clean your Wheels

VI. Conclusion

VII. BONUS VIDEO

I. Why Should You Clean your Car’s Wheels?

If you’re still skeptical that this is a necessary part of auto maintenance, here are a few key reasons.

First off: cleaning your car’s wheels is the only real way to deal with the notable issue of brake dust. This is the dust created when a mixture of adhesive and carbon fibers come off of the brake pad and metal shavings are ground off of the rotor. Particularly because it’s coming off hot, it’s a highly corrosive material that can lead to pitting and corrosion on your wheels. Brake dust is generated every time you drive, so it’s a constant problem that necessitates regular cleaning. Generalized road grime is similarly an issue.

Also, if you’re planning on washing the rest of your vehicle as usual, it’s a good idea to clean your car’s wheels first. Otherwise, both brake dust and dirty water might end up spattering back onto the car, undoing much of your hard work.

And that’s not to mention the fact that aluminum wheels look incredible when they’ve been cleaned and polished. Because aluminum is fairly soft (as metals go), when it’s been polished it can actually look a great deal like chrome. You’ll feel a great deal of satisfaction when you thoroughly clean and polish your wheels.

II. What’s the Difference between Aluminum and Steel Wheels?

Wheels are made with different metal blends (alloys)—the two most common materials are aluminum and steel. They have different pros and cons, and create varying effects on the driving experience, as well as requiring different methods of upkeep.

Aluminum wheels, also known as “alloy wheels,” are made up of an alloy of aluminum and nickel. Typically, these will be cast—created by putting liquid aluminum in a mold. They’re usually nicer-looking than steel wheels, and they are fairly strong while still being lightweight (so that they help with fuel efficiency). Since they’re molded, they’re able to come in a variety of designs. Both chrome-plated and bare polished aluminum wheels tend to be vulnerable to scratches and the negative effects of oxidation.

Steel wheels are made up of a mixture of carbon and iron. A con is that they’re heavier, so they may reduce acceleration and fuel efficiency. However, they’re also stronger: they are less likely to be cracked by impact, and won’t be as easily damaged by gravel, de-icers, and brake dust (thus they’re more common in winter driving situations). They’re also often easier to repair. Rather than being molded, they’re generally cut out on a press, then welded together. They offer fewer design choices, so they’re less about the aesthetics of the car’s wheel, and more about the function.

III. Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning your Car’s Aluminum Wheels

1. Rinse the wheels

Rinse the wheels in order to remove as much grime and dust as possible as a first step. Use as high a water pressure as you can and be sure to get in every nook and cranny that you can reach—this step will save you time and effort later on, so it’s worth being extremely thorough.

2. Apply wheel cleaner

Spray wheel cleaner product to each wheel one at a time. See the list below for advice on which product to choose.

3. Add elbow grease

Using a soft brush, scrub gently to remove any stuck-on grime. As you’re doing this, make sure to keep the whole area coated with water so that the wheel doesn’t get scratched, and make sure wheel cleaner doesn’t dry on the wheel (it could leave unattractive spots).

Get in between the spokes with the brush and clean the barrel, and use a lug nut brush to clean in and around the lug nut holes. It’s important not to use an overly stiff brush, because if you scratch the wheel now it will take more time to polish those scratches away.

4. Clean the wheel wells

Use an all-purpose cleaner and a stiffer brush with a long handle to clean the wheel wells, which tend especially to accumulate dirt.

5. Rinse again and dry them off

Rinse everything you’ve cleaned so far, and dry everything using a soft towel such as a microfiber towel. If you don’t dry the wheel, you’ll end up getting water spots.

6. Clay the wheels

Detailing clay is a good tool to use to clean your car’s wheels very thoroughly, so if you’d like, use detailing clay at this point in the process, although it’s not a requirement.

7. Polish the wheels

Apply aluminum polish with a clean rag in small sections (this will keep the polish from drying before you’re able to rub it in). Start with the wheel surface and then move to the lug nuts, and rub along the grain of the wheel. You can use a toothbrush wrapped in a cloth for any crevices you can’t otherwise reach. When you’re done, wipe it clean with a clean, soft towel.

8. Seal with wax

Put wax onto a clean cloth and rub it onto the surface of the wheel. You can also use a metal sealant rather than a standard wax; whatever you use, make sure it’s OK to use on aluminum wheels specifically.

Then let the wax dry for roughly 10-15 minutes. Once you’ve let it dry, wipe it off with a clean cloth.

Your wheels should look shiny and be perfectly protected.

IV. The 3 Best Wheel Cleaners & Polishes on the Market

1. Sonax Wheel Cleaner Full Effect

This pH-balanced wheel cleaner has an interesting, user-friendly feature—the formulation turns red as it attacks dirt and grime. It’s acid-free, and is designed to be safe for use on painted, anodized and clear coated wheels. Reviewers report that it has an ideal effect on high-quality aluminum wheels.

2. Meguiar’s Hot Rims Wheel Cleaner

One of the most annoying things about cleaning wheels is that the surface is vertical, meaning that many cleaners slide or drip off before they can penetrate the many nooks and crannies that make cleaning wheels such a challenge at times. That’s why it’s so useful that this cleaner’s Xtreme Cling foam holds it in place long enough to truly dissolve any dirt and grime that’s present.

3. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish

We can’t forget the polish on this list—once you’ve cleaned your car’s wheels you’ll definitely want to make sure they’re shining as much as possible. This is a high-quality, easy-to-use aluminum polish that gets great reviews and is also completely affordable.

V. How Often to Clean your Wheels

It’s generally recommended that you wash your wheels with soap, water and a wash mitt every time you wash your car (perhaps twice a month).

More thorough cleanings, plus adding a layer of protective substances, can happen with less frequency—something like 4-6 times per year.

However, these are just very general guidelines. It’s up to you to look at your wheels and decide whether they’re dirty.

If, say, you’ve been driving on muddy dirt roads, you’ll have more need to wash your wheels than when you’ve been driving on regular old pavement. It’s up to you to use your judgment and decide when you feel the wheels need to be cleaned (and if aesthetics is a concern for you, it’ll of course be every time they start looking less attractive due to dirt and grime accumulation).

Conclusion

Want to make sure your wheels are maintained in good condition, and your car looks as clean and attractive as possible?

Be sure to clean your wheels on a regular basis. As you now know, it’s not an overwhelmingly challenging task by any means.

Simply use the right products and follow the steps above and you’ll be able to keep your vehicle in top condition, potentially for years to come.

A little effort now means your car will have greater longevity (you may even save money in the long run), and in the meantime it will be a pleasure to drive.

BONUS VIDEO

Bonus video

Done in partnership with https://invideo.io/

You love your car. The two of you spend a lot of time together. All you really want to do is to keep your car brand new as those cars glinting in the lights of the showroom or the day you bought it off the lot.

Okay, we both know that is not maintainable, but you can keep your car looking magnificent while still actually taking it out on the streets.

Are you confused by conflicting advice on when and how to detail your car? Don’t let your car deteriorate due to inaction.

We’ve got good news: Washos has distilled all the information you need right here. After you read this, you’ll be ready to give your car the TLC it deserves.

How often should you wash your car?

Let’s face it; most of us don’t wash our cars as often as we should.

Splattered with what used to be bugs? Splattered with bird droppings? Splattered with tree sap? Dirty from a long commute and the polluted air that comes with it? Sticky from heat or stained from rain or salty from the coastal air?

Does this sound like your car?

If that’s your car, it needs to be washed weekly.

If your car doesn’t have much contact with bugs or birds or trees, if you live in an area with mild weather, or if you keep your car in a closed garage, then every other week should do it.

If you’re really lucky, then you can stretch it to once a month. But to be this lucky, you probably don’t actually drive your car very much.

How often should you wax your car?

In general, you should wax your car once every three months.

But maybe the first question you have is why you should wax your car at all.

Once every three months sounds doable. But that’s an average. How do you know if your car needs waxing right now?

The Bead Test

The easiest way is the bead test. Anyone can do it. Simply throw some water on your car and see if the water beads up. If it does, you’re still good . . . for now. If it doesn’t, it’s time to get your wax on.

Speaking of wax, what kind of wax should you use?

Carnauba wax will give your car a fabulous shine—but only for about four to six weeks, so get ready to pay for that sheen with some extra elbow grease. If you’re not as fussy, then polymer sealant will work just fine and last the full three months.

Now, if you live in an environment that’s tough on your car’s exterior—salt, smog, cold temperatures, exposure to tree sap, all those elements that mean you need to wash more often—you will also have to wax more frequently.

If your car’s new (lucky you!), you might not have to wax as often as the rest of us with models that have seen a bit of the world.

Consistent waxing protects your car’s finish long-term so make it a routine that you keep up.

How often should you condition your leather seats?

As a general rule, you should also condition your leather seats every three months.

However, is this the car you use every day? Do you frequently have passengers? Do you have children? Do the seats spend a lot of time exposed to the sun? If so, every two months is a safer bet to keep the leather in top shape.

If you use your car more infrequently and more gently, you may be able to extend the timetable up to six months.

How often should you clean your engine bay?

If you’ve never thought about cleaning your engine bay as part of your regular detailing routine, it’s time to start.

If your environment has a lot of dust, pollen, snow, or dirt (starting to sound familiar?), then you should be cleaning your engine bay every three months to remove the build-up.

If your environment is more forgiving, then once or twice a year is adequate.

When you pop the hood, look for build-up in the PCV valve, which can create leaks. Whenever any valves or gaskets are replaced, you should have the engine bay steam cleaned.

However tempting it might be to do it yourself, do not pick up that water hose. You could cause a great deal of damage.

How often should you clay your car?

If you haven’t heard of claying your car, you’re not alone.

Because clay bars have only recently been made available to the general public, most people don’t know about this great alternative to polishing or buffing.

Why is it so much better? Claying actually removes particles that have become trapped in the paint. Using a clay bar will make your car feel as smooth as glass, but don’t forget to wax after each claying.

At Washos, we recommend claying twice a year, but you can do it as often as you want.

It’s easy to determine whether you should clay right now. Rub your hand along your car. Do you feel roughness? If so, it’s time to clay and draw those particles out of the paint.

Flat areas like the roof, hood, and trunk attract more grit since it’s easier for it to settle there.

How often should you detail your car?

The good news is that how often you should have your car detailed is mostly personal preference. Many people prefer to do it every four months.

Our recommendation is to do a full and thorough detail twice a year. This includes claying, polishing, sealing—the works.

However, once every three months you should do a refresher detail, including sealant and wax as well as treat any leather.

You should thoroughly clean the interior of your car once a month. It’s time-consuming, but clean out any trash and wipe all the interior surfaces free of dust and grime.

And of course, don’t forget the weekly or bi-weekly wash!

Washos’ Quick Guide to Keeping your Car Brand New

Now you know how to keep your car looking its best. Here’s a quick guide (remember to take into account the harshness of your environment):

When you care for your car, it’ll care for you. Keep your car looking its best while protecting your investment.

Do you have any car cleaning maintenance tips? Share in the comments below.

Try Washos!